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A Misty Mountain Range

Botanical diversity and legendary landscapes
The Knuckles Range is located in almost the exact centre of Sri Lanka, between the districts of Kandy and Matale. Its location protects it from mass tourism despite it obtaining Unesco classification in 2010. This geological formation formed from a landslide, and is named after thesequence of weathered peaks visible to the west of the mountain range. From certain angles, their outline against the sky somewhat resembles the knuckles of a closed fist. This unusual name was attributed to them by one of the first surveyors who visited the area - a Briton. But the locals already referred to the site as Dumbara Kanduvetiya, 'Mountain of Mists'. 

The highest point - near Gombaniya (1906 m) - is covered in mysterious cloud forests, whose layers resemble cotton wool. The humidity is ideal for the survival of many species, which is why it was chosen by Unesco. The Knuckles contain one third of the country's indigenous plant life - meaning plant life found exclusively in Sri Lanka. Aside from the highly humid areas, the Knuckles are also a microcosm that features a cross-section of all the island's climates in a single location.

The Knuckles Conservation Centre in Ilukkumbura offers some practical as well as geological information. Be sure to pay for the permit - which is not very expensive. A classic option for visitors, not far from Ilukkumbura, is a short one-and-a-half-kilometre climb to the famous Mini World's End. This "mini world's end" refers to the view from the 1,192m high cliff. The path varies from red earth to gravel. It is both hot and humid, so it's a good idea to wear loose, breathable clothes and adequate walking shoes.

A proper 8-hour hike

A viewpoint over the entire southern mountain range, Mini World's End offers one of the most impressive panoramas in the Knuckles. Beware, as the summit of the climb is totally exposed and has no railings! Another classic option if you want to tackle a longer trek is the Bambarella-Thangappuwa route, which of course passes through the Knuckles. In this seven-to-eight-hour hike, the paths slope up and down like the profile of the Knuckles themselves. With plenty of path markings to keep you on the right track, it first takes you through tea plantations and villages with their low, colourfully painted houses. This will be your last chance to fill up your water bottle, although you’ll come across plenty streams, creeks and waterfalls along the route (refill your water bottle as soon as you come across fresh water).

Also, remember to take some food with you. It is wise to have two meals on hand when hiking without a guide. Remember that some routes are not always well marked and can result in additional hours of unplanned walking. You should also bring a good lamp and emergency bedding, or even a light tent, as the nights are chilly.

Some essential tips

The Knuckles forest is so dense that light barely filters through the canopy. Sometimes it feels like evening before you reach the outer edge and the light of the warmer hours. Observatories have been set up along the way to give you the opportunity to see something other than the green of the foliage. Occasionally, it is necessary to leave the main path to take some time to enjoy the view, or even to climb a little to reach the summits. Before arriving at Tangappuwa, the landscape opens up into a vast plain dotted with round rocks.

It is possible to complete a series of hikes in 4-5 days starting from a campsite or guest house accommodation. You might even be lucky enough to encounter wild elephants in the Knuckles - which you should be cautious of - and even catch a glimpse of a leopard. You’ll be more likely to spot dogs and black cows at the beginning of the trails, and sometimes sambars, squirrels, lizards, and birds. Unfortunately, leeches are an inevitable reality, especially in the tall grass and water holes. To remove them, spray them with mosquito repellent or hold a lighter or a burning stick near them. To prevent a leech infestation, shoes should be tightly closed and swaddled in thick plastic bags when leaving the area.

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