In the year 1824, the English imported a single tea plant from China to Ceylon, to plant in the royal gardens. Yet it was not until 43 years later that a Scotsman, Jack Taylor, created a genuine commercial plantation in Kandy! 

Kandy, a city with a sweet name, is the second largest city in the country and the last capital of the kingdom. It acts as a gateway to the mountainous central region of Sri Lanka. Visitors enjoy taking their time here to admire the relic of the Tooth of Buddha and other treasures. Then, it is time to venture out into this lush palette of greens. Why not take the train? This way, you can travel around 80 km in just four and a half. But this is not just any old train journey – it is a profusely immersive experience, as the train winds between waterfalls and coniferous forests, cliffs and terraces stretching across rice fields and tea plantations.

Each station is a chance to photograph the colourful crowd getting on and off the train, cheerfully jostling each other. Terminus, Nanu Oya. A few more kilometres to go to reach Nuwara Eliya, the capital of the Pidurutalagala mountain range. The evenings can be a bit chilly in the highest city of the country, at an altitude of 1860 metres, so it is wise to bring a jumper even in summer. However, what is most surprising here is the distinctly British atmosphere.

Welcome to Little England

Founded in the 1820's by Samuel Baker, the pleasantly cool climate of Nuwara Eliya rapidly made it a popular resort in the warmer seasons. The town is still known as "Little England.” There are many surviving buildings from the colonial period, such as the majestic post office, which resembles a manor made of red bricks and topped with orange tiles. There is also the Queen’s Cottage which is now one of the holiday homes of the Sri Lankan president. The original bank was built to facilitate the transactions of the tea planters and is still in operation.

There are churches that are also worth a visit, such as St. Xavier's, the oldest, and Holy Trinity, perhaps the prettiest. It has a wooden roof and is home to the largest pipe organ in South Asia. Many mansions have been restored and turned into hotels with manicured lawns and carefully tended gardens. It hardly comes as a surprise to discover the golf course... and even a racetrack! This peaceful city would not be complete without Lake Gregory, created in 1873 following a proposal from the governor. He had the waters of a canal diverted to provide electricity for the town: quite modern for the time! Today, it is mainly a good excuse for a boat trip. 

From plantation to teacup

And what about the tea? After all, the main reason for climbing so high is to find out more about these plantations. You’ll have to get up at the crack of dawn, first to enjoy the sunrise, then to admire the dance of the tea pickers, traditionally of Tamil origin, their multicoloured saris standing out amidst a sea of green. With a bag slung over their backs, bent over the bushes, they pick only the top leaves by hand, but with tremendous speed! Working under the watchful eye of a foreman, the process is both meticulous and exhausting. It is possible to visit some of the factories in the area.

Due to the altitude, Nuwara Eliya is said to produce the most delicate teas. But the more basic the factory looks, the better you can see the process, from drying to packaging! However, as with all commodities that are exported - and Sri Lanka is the world's 4th largest producer - it is the best teas that go abroad. Finally, you can head back to the city, for a tea-time as delicious as can be found anywhere in England!