Ambalangoda: there is a certain poetry and softness in this town's name. The town is also known for its fabulous ancestral tradition of masks. Most importantly, it has a history that spans centuries.

For those interested in local traditions, this is one that has been present for over two millennia in Sri Lanka. The town of Ambalangoda is the place where this heritage lives on. In just a two-hour drive from the capital, Colombo, you can reach this town that is famous throughout the country for its carved masks. However, these are no carnival accessories!

There are three types of masks, the oldest are the sanni, while the most popular are the kolam, which are used for entertainment. The raksha's name refers to the Cobra demon that terrorises the enemy, and the peacock demon that brings peace and prosperity. These masks are used during ceremonies and processions.

Let’s take a look back in time.

First we have “sanniya”, which means disease. Disease is transmitted by a devil who is also the source of healing. The ailments are represented by 18 different masks - although anthropologists have identified many more. Each one represents a type of illness or disability: it is not surprising that the masks of malaria and high fevers are decorated with bright reds and flames, while those related to liver problems are more yellow and orange. Are snakes deaf? In any case, it is a cobra that depicts deafness.

It is not medicine that is used to heal these ailments, but rather exorcism rituals translated into dance, music and pantomime. The sanni Yakuma. The yakadura - the exorcist-shaman - summons the devils - all of them or only some of them - at the source of the illness and determines the most suitable time and day for the ritual. The patient makes offerings to the demons, who then appear, dancing grotesquely. They finally accept the offerings and stop bothering the patient. 

From sacred to secular, yet always masked

There is very little separation between the healing mask rituals and popular performance. This is because Sri Lanka also has a culture of theatre. Derived from mythology and Buddhism, it is performed in four acts. The narrator is a bare-faced dancer, accompanied by musicians, and invokes the demons before presenting the story.

Then the often satirical characters of the play appear, this time dressed in impressive, multicoloured masks. Their carvings accentuate their expressions, from the most frightening to the most amusing, dancing, miming, and conversing in a comical and joyful manner. Kolam is also evolving. In recent years, it has introduced human characters, moving slowly from the sacred to the secular. However, if there is one aspect that remains unchanged, it is the use of the masks.

From kaduru to polychromy

Two museums are dedicated to these traditions. The first is a little dated and only displays part of its mask collections. However, it also displays costumes related to rituals and dance. After viewing some antique tools and a workshop, the tour is quickly over. The second museum, Ariyapala & Sons, is named after one of the most famous master craftsmen. It is more extensive and exhibits a beautiful variety of pieces. On display are the most ancient to the most recent, along with an explanation of the manufacturing process. This process has been handed down through generations of craftsmen's families, sometimes via precious manuscripts.

The carver uses the wood of the kaduru - strychnine tree - which is both light and soft. Using a chisel and a mallet, he forms the basic shape before drying it, and placing it over a fireplace for a week: an essential step to protect it from insects! Once carved, the mask is first painted pale yellow. Then the patterns are created, which indicate the disease being represented. The pigments are mixed with a resin to ensure that the colours are preserved over time. As you can imagine, the most affordable masks to bring back as souvenirs are now produced in factories. If you are looking to buy one from a genuine craftsman, be very wary of counterfeits!