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Sri Lankan architecture - a patchwork of styles

From Portuguese trading posts to Dutch and British settlers, Sri Lanka has been shaped by centuries of colonisation. What heritage was left behind after these years? The most visible remnant is the country’s colonial architecture which can be admired in many of the country’s major cities.

If you are touching down in Colombo, it would be a shame not to stick around a while and go on a walk to see all the wonderful buildings. The Fort district probably has the most beautiful scenery in the city. But don’t bother looking for the fort, as it no longer exists. Between the ministries and the presidential palace, however, the area has some beautiful colonial buildings, such as the former Dutch Hospital. With its five wings opening onto two courtyards, it is the oldest building in the capital. Used as a residence for apothecaries and then as a police station, it was abandoned before being renovated. Today, people like to go there to dine in its restaurants.

The red brick and arcaded building was built by the British in 1844, and it is now home to several department stores. A few more steps away, you will find more arcades, and then the Grand Oriental, which used to be a military station, and was then transformed into a hotel at the end of the 19th century. If you keep going, you’ll reach Saint Peter's Church, which was first the official residence of the governor before becoming his ballroom, and then went back to its religious status under the English. Then you can get a feel for the local culture by walking to Arcade Independence Square. The former psychiatric hospital, which was first a university college and then a government building, has been renovated to become a shopping centre.

Colombo in Sri Lanka.

And the National Museum, designed by Sri Lankan architect Wapchi Marikar, will make you feel like you landed in Italy. Inaugurated in 1877, it is surrounded by a beautiful garden, and is also worth the visit to learn about the history of the country, and to check out its beautiful mask collection. Finally, you must visit the two main temples, the two-hundred-year-old Kapikaawatha Shivan temple, dedicated to Ganesha and Shiva, and Gangaramaya, a little further away, which mixes local, Indian and Chinese architecture.

Kandy, an eclectic city

Kandy is the country's second largest city and has one of its prettiest railway stations, with a Victorian façade. You have to enter the station to fully admire its splendour, from the parquet floor to the counters, transporting you back in time. The former royal palace, which used to be occupied by the colonial administrator, is now home to the archaeological museum. Then, if you head towards the lake, you will see the Queen's Hotel, which is the oldest establishment built by the British, and then the Swiss Hotel, home to the Chief Minister of the Royal Granary in the 17th century. Not far from the city, make sure to visit Kandy House, a superb mansion set in a lush tropical garden, which was home to the last Chief Minister of the Kandyan Kingdom in the 19th century. And finally, visit the incredibly charming planters' houses at Ceylon Tea Trails, a Relais & Châteaux resort, at an altitude of 1,250m near Nuwara Eliya.

Kandy in Sri Lanka.

Galle, a must-see

Galle is located 106 km south of Colombo and is surrounded by the Indian Ocean. It's impossible not to love the city, with its rich colonial heritage, offering insight into the country's history. It is divided into two different areas - there is the new town with its small covered market, a relic of Portuguese colonisation. You can admire the beautiful lawn of the international cricket stadium, and then head to the old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is found just behind the fortifications.

Built by the Portuguese, extended by the Dutch, and consolidated by the British, each street is a treasure trove with plenty to photograph. Wander around and discover the Dutch Reformed church, with its floors covered in tombstones, brought in via a 19th century pier. The houses are also a reminder of the past, with their blackened tiles, lacework stucco, colonnades and verandas. It is also fun to visit the historical residence, which is home to an astonishing collection of colonial objects, from porcelain, yellowed lace, jewellery, and coats of arms. Some of the collection is even for sale, including certificates and export authorisations.

Galle in Sri Lanka.

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